Charles Graft in BNR's Big Five: "How do we build a world without waste?"
This week, BNR's Big Five focuses on 'a world without waste'. Various leading speakers are extensively interviewed about whether we are still on track for a waste-free world by 2050.
Charles Graft discusses the problems in the textile sector and indicates what solutions are needed in the short and long term. His interview can be found here: BNR Nieuwsradio.
This vision also underlies SORTED: a chain-wide approach, with innovation, with research, and with a training program is needed to make the transition.
Challenging times in the textile recycling sector
The main points that Charles made:
Textile recycling markets and Sympany are facing major problems; Charles called on Deputy Minister Aartsen to intervene. Otherwise, it will go exactly the same way as with the plastic sector.
The supply of textiles will continue to grow in the Netherlands and Europe, while the demand for reused textiles will actually decrease. This is a further threat to the earning model.
For the recycling part, our costs need to drop by 80% to meet future market demand. Only then will recycling become as cheap as 'virgin' and this part of the market will start.
The recently granted SORTED subsidy is essential for implementing the right innovations.
The fascination of consumers with clothing needs to change. This will be investigated in the SORTED project by the University of Groningen.
Answer to chain question
A component of the radio broadcast is the chain question. Secretary of State Aartsen posed the following question to Charles:
"Charles is, of course, active in a sector, as I mentioned, where we used to be very proud of how well it was doing. But now, in recent years, you see that this sector is under enormous pressure. You can see that with collectors, sorters, and recyclers in the textile industry. I am very curious about what plans he would propose if he were in my position. And also especially: what does he need to ensure that you have a healthy business model when you are active in recycling textiles?"
Charles has the following points for the Secretary of State:
Short term:
Create a level playing field by intervening directly (according to the call the Secretary of State made on 19/11 in Brussels)
Provide financial support where needed
Call the UPV Textiles Foundation to order and have it do what it was established for
Medium term:
Thorough Cost Price Research with all PROs
Establish a blending obligation and adjust UPV accordingly (do not wait until 2028)
Set up an action group within one year with industry partners from the entire chain
Examine 'near shoring' and determine what you will do in the Netherlands
Encourage collaboration within the chain (ASML model), including InvestNL, banks, government, industry peers, clothing brands, and retail
Long term:
Implement plans from Plan Draghi and Wennink
Determine 'near shoring' and 'reshoring' of the textile industry in the EU
Achieve cooperation in the chain within the EU
Interesting podcast series
In the Big Five, ample time is taken, resulting in individually interesting interviews:
Monday, November 17: Tom van Aken, CEO Avantium
'Fossil companies do not want sustainable alternatives if it poses a threat to what they do' (podcast)
Tuesday, November 18: Ankie van Wersch, director-manager MVO Nederland
'If your company is not yet working on climate adaptation, you will see your profits evaporate soon' (podcast)
Wednesday, November 19: Thierry Aartsen, Secretary of State for Public Transport and Environment
'Waste is a strategic raw material' (podcast)
Thursday, November 20: Charles Graft, director-manager of Stichting Sympany
'Collected clothing yields us nothing now, so we have been operating at a significant loss for two years' (podcast)
Friday, November 21: Marko Hekkert, director of the Netherlands Environmental Assessment Agency
